We recently stopped by newly opened Atria (formerly Grayz) to check out their cocktail program. Their gin-centric list focuses heavily on the classics, updated with a modern slant. When the beverage director bragged about having only two kinds of vodka behind the bar, we knew that this was our type of place. This Midtown restaurant leaves the boring mixers to the tourist traps down the block; they focus on drinks that pack a punch, in both flavor and potency. If we weren’t trying to be so fancy, we’d give them a good old fashioned Boo-Yah!
There are plenty of nooks in this space for the thirsty. Downstairs, you’ll find a dining room with vaulted ceilings and a more intimate seating space without the height. We preferred the cooly-lit upstairs bar (how did you guess?). The cocktail and wine list shows that they take their stuff seriously. None of this dainty two page nonsense. The list has heft and is pages long, like a holy book. We could only say Amen. It’s like boo-yah, but for religious folk.
We started with The Twentieth Century, a sprighty combo of Bulldog Gin, Lillet, White Crème de Cacao, and Fresh Lemon Juice. We still aren’t sure about the main source of zest. Was it the bite of the Bulldog or the citrusy nip of the lemon? Either way, the dapper drink went down faster than the 1920’s. The Brunette (pictured) was something that we were surprised to find: an espresso drink that is actually good. The secret lies in the “House-Infused 44 Cordial”, a rum that sits for 44 days with Espresso beans and orange. The menu calls it a “decidedly confident eye opener”, we call it “wow we’re really hopped up, we shouldn’t have had two of those.”
The Johnson’s Soda (served as an orange version when we stopped in) hit the spot between stronger rounds. Tart and refreshing, it was the perfect bridge between courses (i.e. stronger drinks). We were going to call it a night, but couldn’t resist ordering the WASPy-sounding Polo Mallet to top off the evening. We usually enjoy a briny olive or three in our cocktail. This concoction of Plymouth Gin, Sweet Vermouth, and Regan’s and Angostura Bitters came garnished with a house made cocktail onion.
The drink was delicious, a playful mix of Martini and Manhattan. The onion? Sublime. Did we ever expect that we’d refer to a cocktail onion with such a word? No. But we also never expected to eat four more straight out of a cup for dessert. The gin soaked exterior basks in unexpected flavor, while one bite reveals a delectably juicy interior. It’s like candy for drinkers. We’d say another boo-yah if our mouth weren’t so full of cocktail onions.
Beverage Director Barry Johnson explains the magic behind the garnish:
I always think that you have to have a good brine that represents the flavors that our chef uses in the kitchen. Our chef puts together a brine that includes: Fennel seed, Fenugreek seed, Coriander seed, Dill seed, Dry Red Chile, Bay Leaf, Clove, Cinnamon, Sugar, and White Vinegar. . . after [the onion] simmers a bit, you remove it from the heat, let it cool and refrigerate for about 3 days.
Our fridge is currently stocked with tiny jars, attempting to recreate Atria’s onion. Johnson made us promise to experiment in small batches, so we can avoid an overwhelmingly oniony apartment. We won’t be too sorry if we can’t get it right. It will just give us another excuse to head back to Atria for more "investigation" (i.e. lots more drinks).
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