Review: Apotheke

Last night, Barfly headed into the bowels of Chinatown to check out the newest “fake storefront that’s really a trendy cocktail lounge” Apotheke. Rumor (i.e. savvy PR) has it that the Chinese gangs of Old New York used to settle their scores by duking it out on this hidden caddy-corner of a street. Though we didn’t witness any knife fighting, this would certainly be the block for it. The lounge is tucked away on quiet, seemingly deserted Doyers Street – the perfect setting to sip some top-notch cocktails (served with a flavorful dash of nostalgic stereotypes).

We settled into a velvety red couch, and the waitress immediately sauntered up with an offer of some “mood-enhancers”. Could the bar really have taken its opium-den theme this far - offering an actual nip of Old New York scandal? Sad to say - it’s not that authentic. The gangsters of the past have been replaced with the foodies of the present. It was not a bit of snuff that she brought to us, but the cocktail version of an amuse-bouche. This sip of cilantro and vodka did indeed elevate our mood as we pondered what drink we would order for the main course.

Apotheke’s pride is in its cocktailing – but they have yet to provide a printed menu of their offerings. Instead, the barmen offer to cook up something based on what flavors we like, or even “how we were feeling today”. We stuck with the cilantro, and ended up with a savory gin martini infused with the herb. Following it up with something sweet – we moved on to a martini with muddled strawberry and fennel. The drinks may not have been mixed with a true blend of narcotics, but we were definitely hooked.

We think that Apotheke is a fine addition to the cocktail-crazed bars that have been popping up around town. Their mood-based cocktails are clearly a gimmick, as is the Chinatown/movie set vibe. Regardless, after a few sips of your delicious drinks, the interior begins to seem particularly luscious. The inspiration is also the problem here – the lounge’s Chinatown location puts it at a disadvantage over some of the more accessible haunts. It is a wee bit of a trek to get to, and though its drinks are stellar, it’s not as cozy as Milk and Honey or intimate as Death & Co. It will have to make its stand as a destination bar, but going with the bar’s theme, we think it will work out. If the junkies of the 18th century made it down there for their fix, than the cocktail enthusiasts of the 21st will certainly make it for theirs.

Review: Apotheke – 9 Doyers Street -

Lack of Authentic Chinese Gangsters – 2 olives – After a few more of those cocktails, we truly expected to be invited into a dice game in the alley-way outside. We tried to start one up, but we think the crowd was more focused on the drinks than on our Chinese Gangster impression.

Place to have a nip before taking the Chinatown bus – 5 olives – We’re so glad that slamming rice wine at the neighboring bodega is no longer our only option.

Small details to enhance the experience – 4 olives – The hidden location, the amuse-bouche, the secret side entrance – all great. We especially loved the mood enhancement provided by the music, though we weren’t aware that 18th century opium fiends listened to The Smiths (though, after a little thought, it does seem perfectly reasonable).

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it’s not as cozy as Milk and Honey or intimate as Death & Co. It will have to make its stand as a destination bar, but going with the bar’s theme, we think it will work out. If the junkies of the 18th century made it down there for their fix, than the cocktail enthusiasts of the 21st will certainly make it for theirs.