Invitations arrive daily in our mailbox. "Fall Foliage Cocktails in Central Park." "Global Beer Bash in the Burg." "Subway Grand Opening. Free 20 oz. Soda with Purchase of a 6 in sub". We usually decline these generous offers, but two weeks ago, an especially promising one arrived. "Join Les Cents Chevaliers at 1789. 5-courses, 6 wines, and one of Washington, DC's hottest chefs, twenty-four year old Daniel Giusti. This was a dinner worth six hours roundtrip on the Acela.
In case the name didn't already clue you in, "traditional" aptly describes this restaurant's aesthetic. Giusti's five courses, though, were inventive, fresh twists on traditional fare. There were emulsions and tonka beans, curries and pierogi, all to dress up, but not distract from, knowledgeably sourced lobster and lamb and blue fin tuna. Most striking about Giusti's menu was its balance. The chef clearly has the skill and imagination to create a buffet of intricate dishes, but he displayed wisdom by refraining from going over the top like so many chefs young and old (ahem Ramsey).
One diner remarked there must be two chefs in the kitchen, because the menu was like a split personality. But we appreciated the mix of austere, simple dishes with more complicated, robust ones. It was like an Indian summer – the clean fare of summer where fresh ingredients are king, with the rich, homey flavors of fall. The mix allowed us to walk, rather than roll, out the door. And judging from the accolades showered upon the chef when he appeared, most of the Les Cents Chevaliers agreed.
This wining and dining club was formed about thirty years ago around a simple mission – build a wine cellar and then plunder it. Eating with thirty highly educated people who love food and wine could end up in one of two ways: a night of pretentious boredom or a ball. Our night thankfully was the latter. These doctors, lawyers and business people boisterously debated everything from the proper temperature to serve white wines (take them out of the fridge twenty minutes before serving) to whether the 1994 Chateau Mouton Rothschild would hold up over the next five years better than the 1994 Chateau Pichon Lalande (the Mouton conquered).
And of course they discussed the food. "To die for," "could go home now," "spectacular," were just some of the words used to describe the favorite – butter poached lobster claw and tail meat, with tonka bean custard, curried Gala apples and lobster jus foam. Like being presented with an engagement ring at the grocery store, everyone was happily shocked with the combination. (Giusti explained later that the combination was actually quite natural, lobster goes with curry, curry goes with apple, engagement rings make people happy, just like food.) A 2004 Walter Hansel Slope Chardonnay was a toasty compliment to the lobster.
We particularly enjoyed the Roth Kase Private Reserve, a firm, Swiss-style cow’s milk cheese, served with apple butter and black walnut bread. The hint of cinnamon in the apple butter and black walnut bread reminded us again of the lobster dish; the meal came full circle.
Les Cents Chevaliers has dinners around the Washington, DC area about once a month. We hope we're invited again. The Acela is quite comfortable; we can easily sleep off the 5 courses and 6 wines on the ride back to the City.
Review: 1789
Subway grand-opening deal – 4 olives - A complete meal for $3.99 and we get skinny like Jared. That Val-Pak thing really is one of mankind’s top three inventions.
Ride on the express train after an impeccable meal – 4 olives – The ride went by like a breeze – we barely even noticed that no one invited us to fly on their private jet (we were a little disappointed - we planned to bring the champagne!).
Chance to attend this month’s dinner – 5 olives – We think everyone involved truly cherishes this experience - and we’re not just saying that because we want an invite to next month’s (Note: please send invite to next month’s ASAP, it will take that long to weasel our way onto one of those jets).
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Posted by: GriffithLottie24 | May 16, 2010 at 09:18 AM